The Science Of Stubborn Spots: Why Your Hyperpigmentation Won't Fade

Jakarta – Dark spots, or hyperpigmentation, are a complex dermatological issue that can persist for one to three months, as stated by Dr. Mamina Turegano of Sanova Dermatology in an interview with SELF on Tuesday (24/2/2026). While many seek quick fixes, the science of the skin reveals that certain common practices can inadvertently reinforce the very mechanisms that cause these spots, making them stubbornly resistant to treatment.

At its core, hyperpigmentation is an overproduction of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. This overproduction is frequently triggered by inflammation. Therefore, any skincare habit that causes or exacerbates inflammation will directly contribute to the problem, creating a frustrating cycle where efforts to treat spots end up making them worse.

One prevalent habit that triggers this inflammatory cycle is the layering of multiple potent active ingredients. Ingredients like vitamin C, retinol, and chemical exfoliants (such as glycolic acid) are powerful tools for brightening and resurfacing the skin. However, when used simultaneously, they can overwhelm the skin's delicate ecosystem, compromising its barrier function and causing irritation.

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This induced inflammation sends a distress signal to melanocytes, the cells responsible for pigment production. In response, these cells go into overdrive, churning out excess melanin. The result is that instead of fading, existing dark spots can deepen, and new ones may appear. The biological principle is clear: an inflamed skin environment is a breeding ground for pigmentation.

A more scientifically sound approach involves strategic, not aggressive, use of these ingredients. By introducing them one at a time or separating them into morning and evening routines, you allow the skin to adapt without triggering an inflammatory response. This method respects the skin's natural balance, allowing for effective treatment without the counterproductive side effect of added irritation.

The second critical mistake is treating the symptom while ignoring the cause: active acne. From a biological perspective, an acne lesion is a focal point of inflammation. Within the pore, a combination of sebum, dead skin cells, and bacteria creates an immune response, which is the redness and swelling we see. This localized inflammation is a potent stimulator of melanin production in the affected area.

When individuals focus their skincare efforts solely on fading post-acne marks while their skin still has active breakouts, they are fighting a losing battle. The persistent inflammation from new pimples continues to trigger melanin synthesis, creating a constant stream of new hyperpigmentation. The brightening products are essentially trying to keep up with a problem that is being continuously regenerated.

Therefore, a scientifically effective regimen must first and foremost address the inflammatory driver. Treating active acne to calm this inflammation is the most critical step in preventing the formation of new dark spots. Once this source of inflammation is controlled, the skin can enter a healing state, allowing brightening agents to work unimpeded on existing marks and paving the way for a truly even and healthy complexion.

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Dermatology Hyperpigmentation Inflammation Melanin Skin Science Skincare Mistakes